Chanthaboupha Vongsalavan, an International Business and Marketing graduate-turned chef, founded “Toob Toob Seng” - a truly authentic Lao cooking school in Luang Prabang, Laos. He recently showcased his arts and cooking skills at the Mekong Folklife Festival in Washington D.C., hosted by the Smithsonian museum, as a participant from the Lao PDR.

Mr. Chanthaboupha Vongsalavan, known as Chantra, was born in Salavanh but grew up in Pakse and Vientiane. He completed his high school in Laos then continued his higher education in Germany and Hungary in International Business and Marketing. He worked in the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Laos before becoming a chef and restaurateur.

''Tourism will be the number one contributor in the future as there are many projects developing at the moment,'' he said.

The third Lao Ecotourism Forum, held over the weekend, was expanded for the first time into a regional forum with exhibitors from throughout the Mekong region.

The country projects 1.3 million arrivals with $190 million generated from tourism this year. During the first quarter of this year, it welcomed 420,000 visitors, up 30% year-on-year. It projects two million visitors with $290 million revenue in 2010.

Laos experienced impressive growth averaging 26% a year, from fewer than 40,000 visitors in 1991 to 700,000 in 2000 and 1.2 million in 2006. The average tourist stay in Laos was seven days.

Ambassador Vang said the country's priority was to attract high-quality tourists, currently accounting for only 30% of its total tourists, while other countries in the region such as Thailand attracted 60% high-paying tourists, Cambodia 90% and Vietnam 89%.

''The number may be the same, at about 1.2 million to 1.3 million, but we will work hard to increase high quality tourists,'' he said.

Laos is known as an ecotourism destination _ more than half of its tourism earnings derive from ecotourism. The government has made tourism development, with the focus on ecotourism, one of 11 priority sectors to help improve standards of living. Last week, it organised the third Lao Ecotourism Forum, which has expanded into a regional forum with exhibitors from countries in the Greater Mekong Subregion.

Prime Minister Bouasone Bouphavanh said support for community-based ecotourism started with the Nam Ha Ecotourism Project in Luang Namtha's Nam Ha National Protected Area, which now receives about 5,000 visitors each year.

Vang: High-quality visitors a key goal

''Our government considers this type of tourism as a way of generating income for local people and raising awareness about environmental conservation, encouraging local production and protecting Lao's multi-ethnic culture and traditions,'' said Mr Bouasone.

The country has established ecoguide service centres to provide information about environmentally friendly travel in participating provinces such as Savannakhet, Champassak, Khammouane, Luang Namtha and Luang Prabang.

Laos has also expanded the investment opportunities for tourism-related businesses by allowing 100% foreign ownership in hotels and restaurants and 30-70% in tour companies.

The country has also worked with international organisations and neighbouring countries to improve public infrastructure such as roads, bridges over the Mekong River, international airports, electricity and telecommunication networks,and providing a clean water supply.

The opening of the Friendship Bridge II linking Mukdahan province in Thailand and Savannakhet has encouraged more Thais visit Laos as well as travel farther to Vietnam. A Lao official said more than 200,000 visitors have crossed the bridge since it was opened in December last year. Thais were the largest group of visitors to Laos with 675,845 visitors in 2006, accounting for 55% of total arrivals.

Laos has 18 international immigration points, 13 of which offer visas on arrival. Citizens from eight Asean countries along with Japan and Russia are exempt from visa requirements.

"Coffee roasting is treated as a family secret here,"

Confusing … there's no other word for the place. Just off Highway 13, eight kilometres from Pakse in southern Lao, stands a low-rise building that's a coffee-roasting mill by day and a disco by night. Following the tour guide towards its concealed entrance, I'm trying to fathom what they serve here to keep the young boppers awake and shaking their thing all night. Double espresso or Beer Lao?

"Coffee roasting is treated as a family secret here," says Udone Philomhuck, our Lao guide, before hurrying us through to the back of the building. "The roasters have invented techniques to give unique tastes to their speciality varieties - adding the local hooch, for example."

We're on a tour behind the scenes to see how one of Laos' celebrated exports is made. Those lured to southern Laos by the thought of weaving through the Mekong River's myriad small islands or fighting up the steep path to the Khmer ruins at Wat Phou shouldn't overlook the fact that Pakse is the "capital" of Lao coffee.

But, mention "Lao" and "coffee bean" in the same sentence, and you'll seldom get a nod of recognition from a local. The beans that go to make the rich brew are more famous outside the country of its birth.

Introduced by the French at the beginning of the 20th century, Lao Arabica has managed to flourish through four wars and is now finding favour in France and America. The Arabica beans from the Boloven Plateau - at 1,100 metres, perfect coffee-growing country - are recognised as among the finest in the world by CIRAD, the respected coffee research institute in France. But ironically enough, it's actually very hard to find a cup of Arabica espresso in Laos - let alone a well-trained barista. Here, in a place where people love to take their coffee with condensed milk, the Robusta is king.

"For the local market, Robusta always rules," says the owner of the coffee roaster-cum-dance hall, giving us a glimpse into his secret recipe for Robusta beans.

The roasting mill is a dense fug of smoke and heat, a real sweathouse beneath the roof of corrugated tin. One hooded figure is busy at the roasting box that's spinning fast over a huge wood fire. Another man, with his T-shirt soaked and head half wrapped, tends the soot-black boiler. Braving the choking white smoke, I poke my head over the bucket-shaped boiler and discover a sticky, dark liquid bubbling at the bottom. The roaster casts his eye over it one last time before pouring the mixture out on to a long, beaten-up tray.

"What is it?" I ask, finally giving vent to my curiosity. I'm desperate to find out how this boiling tarmac-like stuff can possibly be of use to the roaster.

"It's sugar and butter - it adds to the coffee's aroma," he replies.

This is the source of the creamy, caramel aftertaste that's unique to Lao coffee, whether taken black or white. Many find it enticing - coffee connoisseurs, however - might disagree.

"Before the French colonists arrived with their Arabica and Robusta, there was a local variety of bean," says Udone, who confesses to preferring instant Nescafe to the local blends. "But back then, there was too little coffee to meet demand. To increase the quantity - if not the quality - roasted tamarind seeds were added, which gave a sour twist and a lingering smokiness."

Your average Lao actually drinks a good quantity of coffee each day, but probably not as you know it. Locals seem to value tastiness over subtle aromas. Drop by one of the small street-side coffee stalls, and you'll find out why.

Back in downtown Pakse after the trip to the roasting mill, I order a hot "cafe Lao". A teenager in a white long-sleeved shirt and traditional Lao sarong taps the boiler professionally, looking like she's fresh out of Lao barista school. She spoons the coffee into the homemade filter then pours in hot water, pausing to allow the black Robusta brew to drip into the glass of condensed milk below. I stir it up and take a sip - the hot summer's day gets a little hotter.

The best coffee, they say, is like fine wine. It has the power to transport the discerning drinker to its place of origin. But Lao coffee, too, has its own tale to tell.

"In January, the berries ripen," says Udone, "and the Boloven Plateau sees an influx of young pickers from all over Laos. It's a romantic place and a lot of them arrive with their sweethearts - January is always a busy month for weddings."

Just how fine can Lao coffee be? I'm no connoisseur so it's difficult to say, but the ordinary cup of Robusta gives a powerful caffeine kick that keeps me bouncing all day. And as I take in the bittersweet burnt flavours, I can almost catch the strains of a wedding song.

So we embarked on our trekking journey far too early that we would have liked. Of course, trekking was neverreally(well, it was completely not in our plans… but never say never!) in our plans, so proper footwear was out of the question. Flip-flops it is! We had booked our trekking session… a nice breezy walk through the Lao hills…a homestay in a traditional hilltribe village..and the next day, an easy walk to the river where we would then raft back to Luang Prabang. Well, we learned that it wasn’t easy.. the walk or anything about it..and I’m pretty much useless when given a raft and a paddle. The trek started off OK…. but then, it got really steep and we were essentially scaling the side of a mountain where rice grows…. and it was hot! But luckily, it was a little overcast, so we had that to be thankful for. It was pretty quiet for most of the first part…we were all tired and it was harder than we had anticipated! But our guide, Pan, was great, and told us lots of things. First stop was a village, and the kids were all very curious of us being there. They were quite intrigued by the camera and wanted to pose and then see themselves on the little screen! It was really cute! I think where we are is better than had we of done this in Sapa (Vietnam) because it is WAY less touristy… it’s like they never see Westerners in these villages… kind of cool. So we carry on… and now we’re all pretty tired and hungry, so we go WAY up the mountain…and stop in another village. Pan’s cousin lives here and so we had our lunch in his house. Different to say the least. No electricity… dirt floors… of course no running water… definitely a different experience to say the least. The tribes are all of different backgrounds, and apparently, most of them are enemies! The one we had lunch in are mostly Mongolian. After an hour and a half (we hit the wall and had to lie down for a bit) we carried on. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking- we were way up in the mountains, and walking past rice fields where the locals are tending to their crops…and the hills were just awesome, although, no fun to walk up! It was worth it though once we finally looked around and realized where we were. (being in flip flops, we were very concerned for our feet!) Anyway, so we carry on…and then… because it’s monsoon season here, it starts to rain. Torrential downpour! But! We have ponchos! so we put our ponchos on and now we’re trekking through the jungle and everything is flooded..and we’re walking through rivers that are overflowing. Rich loved it, Simon loathed it..and I was just happy that our next stop was where we were staying for the night! Haha, so we finally get to our homestay, and it’s pretty cool. More developed than where we had lunch- they had lighting in the main areas and there are about 70 families that live there. We were so tired, we trekked all day and just wanted to eat and go to bed! We took a nap and then ate dinner…and before it got dark we walked around a little bit…but by 8.30 we were done and ready for sleep, we knew we were going to have another long day tomorrow!
The next morning, we were up early again, ate breakfast and were on our way! The hike down to the river was downhill so that was a nice change, and we had a little friend come with us. A dog from the village followed us ALL day (maybe because we fed him bread..) but once we left the village, he came through the gate and came with us all the way down to the river! It wasn’t a short walk either… so we get to the river and board the raft..we get going and again, torrential downpour! It got so bad that eventually we stopped a little earlier than anticipated to eat lunch under cover! It was a lot of fun though, and as bitter as Rich and I were during some of it, it was well worth it. I can’t say I’ve ever met anyone who trekked through the mountains of Laos… and it was really nice to just have our little trio and not a big group. All in all, it was a great 2 days- memorable to say the least! When we got back into town before we boarded a bus to Vang Vieng…so we got a room to shower in and relax before the 7 hour journey south

Asia's top budget carrier AirAsia will fly direct flights to Vientiane in Laos from Kuala Lumpur from July, the airline's chief said Sunday.

"Our aim is to become an Asian airline. Without a doubt, the resumption of a direct air link after nearly a 10-year hiatus will spur economic benefits," chief executive Tony Fernandes told AFP.

"That is the beauty of a low cost carrier. We can fly to destinations which others don't," he said.

National carrier Malaysia Airlines started a direct flight between the two capitals in 1996 but the 1998 financial crisis forced the airline to cancel the service due to poor passenger demand.

Foreign Minister Syed Hamid Albar said the decision to resume the route was made on Friday at the third Malaysia-Laos joint commission meeting to boost trade, tourism and economic ties.

Bilateral trade doubled last year to 58 million dollars compared to the previous year, he said.

"Direct flights to Vientiane will fuel the movement of tourists, and spur trade and investments between the two countries," he was quoted as saying by Bernama news agency.

Fernandes said that AirAsia was also hoping to secure a direct link from Kuala Lumpur to Yangon in Myanmar in the next few months.

AirAsia was launched as a budget carrier in December 2001 with just two aircraft. It now offers more than 100 domestic and international flights throughout Southeast Asia.

 

Laos Blog

VIENTIANE - A pair of border gates joining Laos and Viet Nam were officially opened to the public over the weekend.

Deputy Foreign Minister Phongsavat Boupha and his Vietnamese counterpart, Le Cong Phung, cut ribbons at the Sobhoun gate in Laos' Phongsaly Province and the Tay Trang crossing in Dien Bien Province.

The gates are expected to help northern Laos business people boost trade and tourism co-operation between Viet Nam, China, Thailand and Myanmar

The saying goes that if the hard-working Vietnamese sew the rice, Cambodia's creative types would plant it in pretty rows, while their relaxed Laotian neighbours watch it grow. And nowhere is this south-east Asian stereotype truer than in Laos.

From lazy trips down the Mekong to sipping green tea against the backdrop of crumbling post-French grandeur in Luang Prabang, this rural gem of a country offers you the chance to step back and unwind on an active holiday with a supremely laid-back twist.

Cross the Mekong from Chiang Khong in northern Thailand to Huay Xai and you can get a two-week visa on arrival, or you can arrange a month's stay before you leave Thailand. It will be two days on the slow boat with an overnight stop before you reach Luang Prabang, but well worth the effort. What this journey lacks in comfort - more than you can imagine - it certainly makes up for in scenery. Moody grey-brown waters carry you relentlessly forward through Laos' green hills.

However, if you would rather reach Laos in more comfort, a flight from Bangkok is the easiest way. Thai Airways and Lao Airlines will get you to the capital Vientiane in little over an hour.

It is hard to imagine a town more perfect than Luang Prabang. The elegant simplicity of the Buddhist temples stand in stark contrast to their golden counterparts in Thailand or India, and the crumbling opulence of the French era leaves a stylish atmosphere you will struggle to find elsewhere in Asia. Foodies should head down to the river where there is a great BBQ joint. Be bold, for this is the place to try buffalo, chicken's feet and all manner of insect-related delicacies.

The breathtaking Kuang Si waterfalls are about 40 minutes drive south of town and you can get a lift with a tour guide. Threeland Travel are most helpful, or alternatively you can take a local tuk-tuk at break-neck speed down a dirt track road to this postcard from paradise.

After a surreal walk through a mini zoo, you will find perfect blue-green lagoons for swimming and several tiers of waterfalls to play with. If you fancy yourself as a Herbal Essences lady, then test your endurance under one of the falls - you will not last long.

From Luang Prabang let the adventure take you to Phonsavanh and the plain of jars. The clue is in the name here and you can expect hundreds and hundreds of huge stone jars of disputed origin. Some believe they were used as burial sites, others that they were used to store rice wine - something of a national obsession.

Having tried this potent spirit, you may not want to imagine a container this size full of it, particularly since your guide is likely to have offered up a swig at breakfast time. You should note that a tour guide is needed for this trip and you should not stray from marked paths as Uncle Sam bombed the area heavily during the Vietnam War leaving a disastrous amount of unexploded ordnance as his legacy. Stone Henge this is not, but it is well worth a look.

From Phonsavanh, whether your active holiday takes you south to the 4,000 islands of Si Phan Don or west to the limestone peaks of Vang Vieng, count on two things: the omnipresent Mekong and natural treasures untold.